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Haute cuisine, literally

Noel Hernandez Noel Hernandez
Thursday 7 April 2011

Another TV show with superstar chef messing about with pots and knives. Nothing apparently new there, until we realise he is cooking at 35,000ft.

Heston-1.jpgThe programme in question is part of Heston Blumenthal's new Channel 4 series, 'Heston's Mission Impossible', where, with his usual taste for limit situations, Heston reinvents the cooking approach of great British institutions - British Airways among them.

This is a good reminder of the always fascinating world of in-flight food: the long forgotten complimentary meals, current overpriced mundane snacks or, borrowing Raymond Chandler's words; the stuff dreams are made of.

Surely BA's First Class belongs to this last category. Travelling on it means being spoilt for choice: from the seafood based meal "Catch of the Day" to a ritual afternoon tea inspired by The Dorchester hotel in London.

Surely such an experience would compensate the alleged change that taste buds experiment in a plane environment. If they are also well washed with free champagne cocktails, being on earth or sky would be the last of the diner's concerns.

Haute cuisine onboard is not an oxymoron then. There is even bibliography on the matter, like the exclusive "Above & Beyond, A Collection of Recipes from the Singapore Airlines Culinary Panel."

Created by ten of the world's top chefs, including Gordon Ramsey, the book describes dishes like braised ox cheeks with buttered young vegetables or artichoke salad topped with fresh black truffles.

We can now land to the harsh reality many of us may face. Far below the nearly science fiction described before are the nothing-to-do-with-its-name dishes offered by low cost airlines.

Our senses and pockets could be at risk with them, but our health too. The meals offered by these companies tend to be rich in saturated fat, a factor that may lead to blood clotting.

According to Sarah Stanner, of the British Nutrition Foundation, in an article published by The Times: "While no specific clinical research has been done to find out if one-off fatty meals in-flight will push you over the edge and trigger DVT, in theory eating fatty meals could make a difference."

We can always opt for the bring-your-own-food-option. It may be a less glamorous offering than Heston's or Ramsey's, but certainly a more realistic.

Pete Williams
Pete Williams
7 April 2011, 01:20PM

Ryanair and easyJet please note !!
Interesting though and reminiscent of a time gone by.

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Gemma Lloyd
Gemma Lloyd
7 April 2011, 01:31PM

BA did use to be a leader in food quality. I think the batton has now passed to some of the other airlines line Cathy Pacific and Air India.

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Gordon Murray
Gordon Murray
13 April 2011, 02:48PM

I think most airline food is a waste of time and money. There is only so much that you can do with limited space and pre-made meals.
BA get points for trying but they should accept that there are limits.

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Jack Scales
Jack Scales
17 April 2011, 02:35PM

Why do BA not concentrate on getting the prices down before worrying about hiring someone like Heston Blumenthal to complicate things.

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Natalie
Natalie, Kent
18 April 2011, 10:44AM

It may make entertaining television but lets be honest, we are not ever going to get the sort of food that Heston serves at The Fat Duck when travelling at 35.000 feet!

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JimmyBarber
JimmyBarber, United Kingdom
18 April 2011, 12:05PM

I am really not sure about all of this. Airline food has to be kept simple because it has to be pre-prepared and then served under difficult circumstances.
From time to time, I get to travel Upper Class on Virgin (the company paying, I must add) and the food is very good for an airline but pretty poor for a restaurant. There is only a certain amount that the airline, despite how hard they try, can actually do.
This is probably good PR for BA, but that is as far as I can go.

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Peter Foxley
Peter Foxley
24 April 2011, 12:36PM

This is just a PR stunt. It will not affect the quality of onboard meals form ordinary travelers.

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